Enjoying the outdoors and having allergies is a painful combination, particularly when you have issues relaxing in your own outdoor space. While it isn't simple to construct an allergen-free landscape, you can do things to aid in reducing your exposure. To start, you need to know the best and worst trees for allergies.
With the warm days and the sunshine, you can't refrain. Though, when your allergy symptoms begin, it could swiftly put a damper on your day. There are ways to help stop this. For example, you can include individual plants in your landscape to help eliminate your contact with pollen.
Worst Trees for Allergies
If you want to put trees into your landscape, you must avoid using monoecious trees. Monoecious trees have male and female sections. They also create pollen.
If you have allergies, steer clear of these species because they produce pollen and cause a reaction. Examples of monoecious trees (worst trees for allergies) are:
• Elm trees
• Pine trees
• Spruce trees
• Beech trees
• Cottonwood trees
• Aspen trees
• Oak trees
• Hickory trees
• Birch trees
Best Trees for Allergies
Dioecious trees are either all female or all male. The male tree makes lots of pollen, and the female tree doesn't.
When picking dioecious trees, be sure you choose a female tree to aid in lessening your pollen exposure. It is vital to note that female dioecious trees possess fruits and seeds. Therefore, additional lawn cleanup and lawn maintenance are necessary.
Examples of dioecious trees (best trees for allergies) include:
• Red cedar trees
• Willow trees
• Ginkgo trees
• Poplar trees
• Fir trees
• Ash trees
• Mulberry trees
• Red maple trees
• Holly trees
• Silver maple trees
Allergy testing is the best way to decide which plants trigger instigate your allergic reactions. Your allergist can help you come up with ways to handle your allergies and avoid harmful allergy-prone plants.
Keep up with wind patterns when you determine where to put specific plants in your landscape, especially when it comes to your bedroom windows. Pollen that generates allergies is so tiny that it wafts from far away.
Call Tree Service York PA for trees to stay away from when you suffer from allergies.
During the cold months, numerous animals hibernate. Others will require enough shelter and food to make it through the winter.
Squirrels are active for just a couple of hours per day when it is cold outside.
Throughout this time, squirrels must find all the food they need. Squirrels typically can’t find their hiding places again. That's why it is a good idea to know what to feed squirrels in the winter.
When to Feed a Squirrel
What should you give a squirrel? Well, squirrels basically eat nuts, flower buds, and seeds, as well as chestnuts and fungi. The type of food they eat will differ based on the season. But basically, squirrels love fruits too. If you grow nuts and fruits in your garden, you have happy squirrels.
Before winter comes, squirrels store food in numerous places around their home, returning to these places in the winter months. Usually, giving squirrels more food won’t harm them. As squirrels are already starting their gestation period in January, the females necessitate plenty of food in the middle of winter. The firstborn of their young arrives in February and will begin searching for food in early spring.
What a Squirrel Likes
The best thing to feed squirrels is a combination of chopped apple, grapes, sunflower seeds, hazelnuts, walnuts, chopped carrot, unsweetened rusk, watermelon, and kiwi. Don’t forget to supply plenty of fresh water. The squirrels need water to wash down all those snacks.
If you can, put up feeding points at various places in your garden so that the squirrels don’t have to run into each other. Generally, you’ll get many visitors. Setting up a squirrel feeder ensures that no other animals gets in the food.
Suitable foods for your squirrel’s grub mixture are:
When you want to do an outdoor project, you may look to your trees as the place to begin. Though, you might be asking yourself, “does it harm trees to use nails and screws?”
Some trees are resilient enough to have a new accessory. Others, however, won’t be able to handle the change.
Read this article to find out if your tree’s an excellent candidate as well as get advice on how to safely use nails and screws in your tree.
Hammering a Nail or Drilling into a Tree
The fact is, hammering a nail or drilling into your tree will leave a wound. Though, if the job is done the correct way on the right tree, you can evade long-term, serious, harm.
To sustain the safety of your tree:
Best Screws and Nails for Trees
The #1 thing you want to avoid is for a screw or nail in your tree to rust. That’s why it’s best to use aluminum, stainless steel, or any rust-proof screws or nails.
The exact place you drill into isn’t going to make a huge difference. The health of your tree plays a critical role in the durability of your new hole.
Healthy trees are sturdy. When you drill into them with a screw or nail, they begin a process called compartmentalization. This means they’ll heal the area around the wound naturally, protecting the rest of the tree from possible diseases. For the best results, pick a strong, healthy tree. If you’re unsure if your tree is healthy, schedule a tree inspection with a York PA Tree arborist.
Trees to Avoid
Trees that are damaged and weak shouldn’t be poked with screws or nails. The hardware will go into the layer beneath the tree bark that’s accountable for transporting nutrients and water through the tree. Also, a new hole gives a new entryway for pests.
The bottom line is: don’t bring more problems to an already strained tree.
It’s nasty, unpleasant, and ugly. Called “dog vomit fungus” this mold is as unattractive as it sounds. Looking bad is one thing. However, what you have to ask yourself is, “if it looks like white fungus on my mulch, will it hurt my trees??
Read this article to learn all you must know about whit fungus on mulch.
Combine warm weather, shady garden spots, spring showers, and you’ve got the ideal setting for white fungus to rear its ugly face.
Spotting White Fungus (“Slime Mold or Dog Vomit Fungus”) in Your Mulch
Fuligo septica, the scientific name for this mold type, was nicknamed due to its appearance. Slime mold is easy to see since it genuinely does look like the outcome of a dog losing its battle with an upset stomach.
Dog vomit fungus or slime mold begins as a shiny yellow foam that expands anywhere from a couple of inches to a foot through a garden bed. Over time, the slimy fungus dries up, changes to brown color and finally changes into a powdery white color.
Getting Rid of It
Now that you’ve verified you have white fungus, and it isn’t a dog in the neighborhood messing in your yard, you’re most likely wondering how the mold developed in the first place.
The answer is that it due to the proper weather elements. White fungus loves moist, warm spaces. After heavy rainfall, a shaded garden is a perfect place for mold to grow.
However, there is good news. White fungus isn’t going to get on your trees. The fact of the matter is, white fungus is harmless. The mold lasts by eating debris and bacteria in the yard for a short period before dissolving into the ground. It’s only noticeable for just a couple of weeks.
All that's to say; you don't have to get rid of the mold. Though, if it truly bothers you, taking it up using a shovel and discarding, it will eliminate the problem. If you’re uneasy about cleaning up the white fungus, contact York PA Tree Service and schedule an appointment.
Going through your photo album of Christmas photos brings back good memories. Besides saving your old photos, you can save a piece of your Christmas tree as well. When a cut Christmas tree flourishes in your house, it feels like a Christmas miracle. You might be wondering, “can I root a cutting from my Christmas tree?”
Sadly, no, you can’t. However, there is another way you can bring new life to your old Christmas tree.
Your Cut Christmas Tree is Sprouting Pine Cones and Buds
Trees necessitate healthy roots to grow. Without roots, how can a Christmas tree sprout pine cones or buds?
Though it might seem like magic, it’s all about the knowledge of how trees respond in the dormant season. Trees must go through a period of cold weather before they get the sign in the springtime to grow once more. For conifers, the usual cold period is around eight weeks.
Once trees do all their dormant hours, they’re just anticipating for temps to go up so they can begin growing again. If your Christmas trees were inactive for a long time outside, the heat inside could stimulate it to start developing as if it’s spring.
Replanting a Christmas Tree That Has Growing Buds
Sad to say, but rootless trees can’t be replanted. Though, if you still desire a memento from your cherished Christmas tree, it’s possible to grow a new tree from one of the tree’s limbs.
Replanting a Tree Branch
Replanting a branch is like beginning planting a new tree job from scratch. It’s not a simple task and requires plenty of patience.
Here’s What You Need to Do
Pack a pot with potting soil and wet the soil so that it’s damp. Next, use a pencil to create a hole in the soil.
Slice a couple of vertical slits into the bottom of the branch, then put into root hormone powder, which you can buy at your local York tree service business. Lastly, put the stem into the soil. That’s it! All that’s left is to watch it grow. You will have a new tree that will create unique Christmas memories.
Using burlap aids in safeguarding fine tree roots as they get taken from the nursery to your house. But then the question becomes, "when planting a tree, do I remove the burlap?“
Planting Trees with Burlap
Burlap keeps trees together until they’re securely put into a planting hole. At this stage, you can take off most of the burlap.
Take the Burlap Off When Planting
Yes, and you should remove as much as you can. Once the tree is put safely in the hole, slice and take off the burlap from around the bottom of the trunk. Next, work your way down the root ball and eliminate as much burlap as you can.
This can aid in lessening the possibility of girdling roots and dehydration. That’s when the roots develop near the trunk and hinder the tree’s ability to carry nutrients and water.
Wire Baskets and Planting Trees
If you are using wire baskets instead of burlap, take off at least the top third of the basket from the root ball. That's all you have to do.
If you attempt to take off more, you raise the possibility that the root ball will start to deteriorate and tear apart.
Planting a Tree Wrapped in Burlap
To move your tree, hold or roll it by the root ball. Don’t ever move it holding on to the branches or trunk.
Dig a saucer-shaped hole as deep down as the root ball and twice as big.
Place your tree, so the spot where the roots connect to the trunk is slightly above or at the ground — that known as the root flare. The greatest mistake is folks planting new trees too deep. Also, be sure the ground under the root ball is stable so that the tree doesn’t sink lower due to its weight.
Cut the cord and take the burlap off from around the trunk base and the root ball top. It’s difficult to tell the difference between organic and synthetic. Sometimes, organic burlap doesn’t decompose correctly.
If you aren’t sure about removing the burlap on your own, contact an arborist to do the job for you.
Elms once lined the streets of many towns and cities. In the 30's, Dutch elm disease almost completely destroyed these lovelies. But they are making a huge comeback, thanks in part to the creation of resistant types. Elm tree diseases still have a significant role in the life of a tree and thwart their care. Anyone with an elm in their outdoor space must recognize common elm tree issues so they can promptly handle them.
Elm Trees Diseases
Many elm tree leaf diseases create defoliation and discoloration. When the leaves fall, the spots have often grouped, and other discolorations have established, making it difficult to differentiate without testing.
Elm tree diseases that affect the leaves are due to fungi, however elm leaf scorch, due to a bacterium, is slightly different. With this disease, the vein bundles in the leaves get blocked so that water can’t travel in the leaf. This makes the leaf appear scorched.
The most destructive elm tree diseases are elm phloem necrosis and Dutch elm disease. Dutch elm disease is due to a bacteria spread by beetles. White-banded leafhoppers disperse the microscopic bacterium that creates elm phloem disease.
Elm Trees Disease Treatments
Once elm tree leaf diseases get hold, there is no real treatment. Burn and rake leaves to stop the development of the diseases. If you have issues with leaf diseases, try applying an anti-fungal spray in the early part of the next year. This may help stop the disease.
There is also no cure for elm phloem or Dutch elm disease. Trees contaminated with Dutch elm disease sometimes react to pruning. This is a treatment that prolongs the life of the tree for many years if caught early and done correctly. It’s best to employ a certified arborist for the work. Trees infected with elm phloem necrosis must be cut down immediately.
Since there is no simple cure, it is vital to know how to safeguard your elm trees from any disease. You should watch for the bugs that spread elm tree diseases and begin a control program immediately.
Black knot fungus has the potential to contaminate Mayday trees, Chokecherry trees, and any other tree in the Prunus family. Though black knot fungus infects mostly the plant species named Prunus, it is still worth your attention because it can significantly alter the look of these trees and if it spreads, black knot fungus can kill a tree.
It is known by a group of thick black masses that develop along the tree branches. This fungal condition is usually seen on cherry trees, but it is not limited to only this tree type.
What Damage is Black Knot Fungus?
Although black knot fungus is not always deadly, it can spread and grow all through your trees. It will destroy your trees' health and its value.
When cherry trees are contaminated with black knot fungus, they can live for several years, yet they won’t be as visually pleasing as your other trees. The last thing you want is to have a diseased, sickly looking tree in your outdoor living space.
How to Deal with Black Knot Fungus
Put forth the effort and put in the necessary time to eliminate the branches that have been infested with black knot fungus. Be sure to accurately sanitize your pruning tools to stop how much of the fungus is transported between your trees. Do a precise pruning, and you will boost the tree’s vitality and visual appeal.
Prune the infested branches about two to four inches under every knot. Then take the diseased branches to the nearest landfill. Black knot fungus replicates in the springtime so don’t prune during this time.
Only prune the trees when they are dormant. Preferably, you will prune them in the late winter months when the knot-like lumps can be easily detected. If you were to wait until the springtime to prune the branches, you would discover that the disease is very active and transportable via the spores.
Contact Tree Contractors
If you have any question about limbs and trees that have been infested with black knot fungus, contact a tree contractor for assistance. A tree specialist is thoroughly educated in a host of pruning methods such as black knot fungus removal.
All around the globe, there are data regarding dying pine trees. There isn’t any more gorgeous than a healthy pine tree. However, it is important to remember that trees are living organisms. As such, they are vulnerable to trauma and diseases. Let’s take a look at issues that only affect pine trees and some remedies.
Pine wilt is due to Pinewood nematode, a bug in the pine sawyer beetle family. It feasts on the resin canal of the tree. This hinders the nutrients and water flow to the branches.
Attacking one branch at a time, the needles become brown, and the tree dies quickly. The only remedy for this disease is to cut the tree down and burn it. You can also schedule a tree removal service. The aim is to save your other trees from getting infested.
Needle blight (dothistroma)is a slow-moving fungal infection found in the needles. You’ll know it when you see a white band in the middle of the needle that gradually turns brown. Ultimately, one half of the needle stays green while the tip becomes brown. If not treated, the tree will die, but the disease can be stopped using applications of copper fungicide.
You can also treat diplodia by using a copper fungicide. This virus distresses separate branches on a tree, and you’ll spot it when the limbs start to leak resin and look underdeveloped.
The vital thing to remember is that trees suffer from anxiety and stress, making them susceptible to illnesses. Trees such as the Japanese black pine are more vulnerable because they have been damaged due to environmental problems including lousy diet and dehydration.
Perform a soil test every three years to make sure that your pine tree is receiving the right amount of water amount and food. Also, keeping your outdoor space neat and clean can lessen the risk of disease.
Moreover, you want to gather up fallen needles periodically and throw them out. Needles can hide parasites. Another suggestion is to trim dead limbs and disinfect your trimmers afterward. Make sure to burn the limbs.
Fruit trees are both an attractive and beneficial addition to any landscape. Though, their health can be endangered by a bacterial disease called fire blight.
How do I spot fire blight on a tree?
Fire blight attacks fruit trees such as:
Tree damage can range from minor disfiguring to death.
When are my trees at risk?
The disease is active mostly in spring with its high humidity and prolonged rain. Late spring is also the time when microorganisms are from a dormant plant. Birds and insects are carriers of the disease, but humans also play a part. Practices like sprinkler irrigation, use of high nitrogen, fast release fertilizer and use of dirty pruning tools are all helpful in spreading fire blight.
What should I look for?
As is in the name, fire blight makes many parts of a plant look like it was burned. The disease affects every area of a tree the same way.
Flower clusters or individual flowers look to be water soaked and ultimately drop, shrivel and turn black or brown.
Similar to flowers, the fruit will turn black or brown and wilt.
Twigs and Branches
The end stages of the disease cause cankers to form and produces discolored oozing patches. The cankers have a water-soaked look before turning dry and sunken. Twigs turn a red-brown color and, often, develop into an inverted U-shape.
Treatment and Management
Fire blight bacteria will go on multiplying as long as ecological conditions are satisfactory. Therefore, it is critical to be active regarding management and treatment.
A program of proper pruning, mulching, fertilization, and irrigation will help the tree’s natural ability to fight this disease. Pruning of all blighted branches and twigs can slow down the spread of the disease. This practice is most efficient when done during the dry, cold periods in late winter. After every cut, pruning tools have to be disinfected using a bleach and water solution. To manage a newly budding tree, don’t use high nitrogen, quick release fertilizers.
To eliminate this disease from your trees, contact your local Tampa arborist.
We at York Tree service want to provide you with helpful tips and information about services your trees. Contact us if you need tree service at your property.