If you have a tree infested with ants, then you have to take the right steps to correct the issue. Ants typically travel up and down the trunk of a tree and go into the cavity, where they make their home.
Due to the nesting and comfort ants experience when living inside a tree, if this isn’t taken care of as soon as possible, the number of ants in the tree will continue to increase.
The black, huge ants that mainly hang out inside of the tree are called carpenter ants. These ants attract attention, regardless if they are crawling on the floor in your home, crawling all over your flowers, or going out and inside a tree trunk.
Carpenter ants love stumps and logs. But they also enjoy nesting in trees, particularly mature ones that have plenty of wood that is rotten and dead. Carpenter ants use trees in which the wood is decayed since a huge amount of moisture is in those trees.
The Importance of Getting Rid of Ants in Trees
It is really important to make sure that ants are kept away from other structures, your home for instance, where they can be troublesome. It is essential, however, to avoid plugging or closing tree cavities to treat wounds. Plugging or closing won’t do a thing to stop ants from nesting or to halt decay.
Ways to Kill off Ants in Your Tree
Spraying ant powder all around the tree trunk. It is the simplest way to handle an ant-infested tree. The powder not only kills the ants, but other ants as well. Ants eat their dead. By doing so, they eat the poison too.
Ants usually live over the entrance hole. If you can reach the entrance hole, activate a can of bug defogger into the opening. If they are living over the hole, they will come running out by the hundreds.
If you find that your ant infestation causes your tree to die and you want to evaluate if your tree is worth saving, contact us at York Tree Services.
Grab your rake to spruce up your yard after its long winter sleep. Here’s how to prep for spring lawn care. Jump start your lawn resuscitation right when the ground defrosts. You’ll will advert a muddy disaster later down the line. Not to mention the envy of your neighborhood.
Spring Lawn Care
Assess the Mess
When you can comfortably be outside for an extended period of time, assess your yard to see if any damage has occurred during the wintertime. Contact a York Tree Arborist if you aren’t sure what to search for.
Inspect your landscape for debris, thrown branches, and dead leaves. Clear it away so you can perform a general inspection of your shrubs, garden, soil, lawn, and trees. See what grass is or isn’t growing back. Make a plan.
Wake Up Grass
Just as you like you, trees and grass enjoy hunkering down on dark, cold winter days. When the snow is gone, vigorously rake your grass, waking it up and encouraging it to grow.
Also, rake out places of thatch. Dead, dry grass can be deep and thick. If you don't, thatch will hide sunlight and oxygen from other grass and plants.
Check for mold and fungus growth. Even if your grass is a little brown, that doesn't mean it's dead. Warm season grasses green up slowly in spring. Cool season grasses green up in early spring.
Don't Forget to Mow
Winter is hard on numerous garden elements. Make sure your irrigation system functions correctly. Check to see if your outdoor lighting is working correctly too. Repair damaged or broken wooden structure and patio furniture. Clean your deck. Sharpen, clean, and oil your pruning shears. Tune up your trimmer and lawn mower.
Prepping your yard can’t be done in one weekend. Though, if you get the heavy lifting done early, it won't be long before you have the soft, warm grass under your feet.
Many folks are concerned that a warm winter is creating confusion for their trees and plants. Even though there is worry about plants interrupting dormancy and flourishing too soon, raising their vulnerability to frost, most trees remain dormant.
Consider the suggestions below before becoming too concerned.
It is normal to see bulbs beginning to emerge. Every plant species reacts differently to changes in temperatures. Though for the time being, most will be accepting to freezing temps.
Don’t be in a rush to start pruning. Bear in mind that pruning new growth and that new growth is more vulnerable to freezing temperatures. Prune pear and apple trees in mid-February, and stone fruits in mid-March. For colder mountain valleys, start pruning a couple of weeks after the Wasatch Front timing.
Don’t till garden soils too soon. Tilling wet soil harms the structure of the soil, creating a compacted layer and hard clods that are hard to deal with later while planting. If you are unsure about when to till, contact York PA Tree Service for assistance.
Most pertinent now is the total lack of winter moisture. The more occupied areas of the state get close to 60 percent of standard precipitation. If the present situation continues, the next growing season can be complex.
Resist the urge to cut off on automatic irrigation systems until April or May. Warm temps do not really mean that plants must be watered. Deep-rooted landscape plants have long root systems that can get to the moist soil better than most folks realize. Homeowners turn on automatic sprinkling systems numerous weeks before the plants truly need it.
There is nothing that can be done about the warm temps but just enjoy them. It is way more vital for you to be aware of your water supply down the road, conserving whenever and wherever you can.
During the cold months, numerous animals hibernate. Others will require enough shelter and food to make it through the winter.
Squirrels are active for just a couple of hours per day when it is cold outside.
Throughout this time, squirrels must find all the food they need. Squirrels typically can’t find their hiding places again. That's why it is a good idea to know what to feed squirrels in the winter.
When to Feed a Squirrel
What should you give a squirrel? Well, squirrels basically eat nuts, flower buds, and seeds, as well as chestnuts and fungi. The type of food they eat will differ based on the season. But basically, squirrels love fruits too. If you grow nuts and fruits in your garden, you have happy squirrels.
Before winter comes, squirrels store food in numerous places around their home, returning to these places in the winter months. Usually, giving squirrels more food won’t harm them. As squirrels are already starting their gestation period in January, the females necessitate plenty of food in the middle of winter. The firstborn of their young arrives in February and will begin searching for food in early spring.
What a Squirrel Likes
The best thing to feed squirrels is a combination of chopped apple, grapes, sunflower seeds, hazelnuts, walnuts, chopped carrot, unsweetened rusk, watermelon, and kiwi. Don’t forget to supply plenty of fresh water. The squirrels need water to wash down all those snacks.
If you can, put up feeding points at various places in your garden so that the squirrels don’t have to run into each other. Generally, you’ll get many visitors. Setting up a squirrel feeder ensures that no other animals gets in the food.
Suitable foods for your squirrel’s grub mixture are:
Bird feeders are not the ideal way to help wild birds endure the winter. Planting shrubs and trees with winter berries is the better idea. Plants with berries in the wintertime are food sources that can sustain the lives of numerous types of small mammals and wild birds.
Keep reading to learn information about winter berry plants for wildlife.
Plants with Winter Berries
Liven up your yard in the winter by installing trees and shrubs with winter berries. Tiny fruits deliver a bit of color to winter scenes. At the same time, winter berry bushes and trees offer a dependable, yearly food supply for birds and other critters, regardless if you are around or not.
Fruits are a very crucial source of nutrition for overwintering birds. Even birds that are insectivores in summer, such as waxwings, grouse, quail, woodpeckers, thrashers, robins, mockingbirds, bluebirds, and catbirds, begin eating berries when winter arrives.
Best Winter Berry Plants for Wildlife
Any winter-fruiting plants are important for wildlife during the cold season. Though, your best bets are native winter berry shrubs and trees that naturally grow in your area. Many native winter berry trees and bushes yield incredible amounts of fruit. Once they are established, native trees necessitate little care.
The list of native winter berry plants for wildlife begins with holly. Holly shrubs/trees have brilliant red berries with bright green leaves that usually remain on the tree all year long. Contact a York Tree Care arborist if you feel the branches need pruning.
Winterberry is a deciduous holly with an incredible fruit display. Another shrub is the cotoneaster with winter berries loved by the birds. Cotoneaster varieties include both deciduous and evergreen species.
Both kinds keep their berries well into the wintertime. Coralberry and beautyberry are two other likely additions to your grouping of winter berry plants for wildlife. Coralberry makes ring-shaped, red berries that pack densely along limbs. Beautyberry changes the tune by generating lots of grape-colored berries.
When you want to do an outdoor project, you may look to your trees as the place to begin. Though, you might be asking yourself, “does it harm trees to use nails and screws?”
Some trees are resilient enough to have a new accessory. Others, however, won’t be able to handle the change.
Read this article to find out if your tree’s an excellent candidate as well as get advice on how to safely use nails and screws in your tree.
Hammering a Nail or Drilling into a Tree
The fact is, hammering a nail or drilling into your tree will leave a wound. Though, if the job is done the correct way on the right tree, you can evade long-term, serious, harm.
To sustain the safety of your tree:
Best Screws and Nails for Trees
The #1 thing you want to avoid is for a screw or nail in your tree to rust. That’s why it’s best to use aluminum, stainless steel, or any rust-proof screws or nails.
The exact place you drill into isn’t going to make a huge difference. The health of your tree plays a critical role in the durability of your new hole.
Healthy trees are sturdy. When you drill into them with a screw or nail, they begin a process called compartmentalization. This means they’ll heal the area around the wound naturally, protecting the rest of the tree from possible diseases. For the best results, pick a strong, healthy tree. If you’re unsure if your tree is healthy, schedule a tree inspection with a York PA Tree arborist.
Trees to Avoid
Trees that are damaged and weak shouldn’t be poked with screws or nails. The hardware will go into the layer beneath the tree bark that’s accountable for transporting nutrients and water through the tree. Also, a new hole gives a new entryway for pests.
The bottom line is: don’t bring more problems to an already strained tree.
It’s nasty, unpleasant, and ugly. Called “dog vomit fungus” this mold is as unattractive as it sounds. Looking bad is one thing. However, what you have to ask yourself is, “if it looks like white fungus on my mulch, will it hurt my trees??
Read this article to learn all you must know about whit fungus on mulch.
Combine warm weather, shady garden spots, spring showers, and you’ve got the ideal setting for white fungus to rear its ugly face.
Spotting White Fungus (“Slime Mold or Dog Vomit Fungus”) in Your Mulch
Fuligo septica, the scientific name for this mold type, was nicknamed due to its appearance. Slime mold is easy to see since it genuinely does look like the outcome of a dog losing its battle with an upset stomach.
Dog vomit fungus or slime mold begins as a shiny yellow foam that expands anywhere from a couple of inches to a foot through a garden bed. Over time, the slimy fungus dries up, changes to brown color and finally changes into a powdery white color.
Getting Rid of It
Now that you’ve verified you have white fungus, and it isn’t a dog in the neighborhood messing in your yard, you’re most likely wondering how the mold developed in the first place.
The answer is that it due to the proper weather elements. White fungus loves moist, warm spaces. After heavy rainfall, a shaded garden is a perfect place for mold to grow.
However, there is good news. White fungus isn’t going to get on your trees. The fact of the matter is, white fungus is harmless. The mold lasts by eating debris and bacteria in the yard for a short period before dissolving into the ground. It’s only noticeable for just a couple of weeks.
All that's to say; you don't have to get rid of the mold. Though, if it truly bothers you, taking it up using a shovel and discarding, it will eliminate the problem. If you’re uneasy about cleaning up the white fungus, contact York PA Tree Service and schedule an appointment.
Going through your photo album of Christmas photos brings back good memories. Besides saving your old photos, you can save a piece of your Christmas tree as well. When a cut Christmas tree flourishes in your house, it feels like a Christmas miracle. You might be wondering, “can I root a cutting from my Christmas tree?”
Sadly, no, you can’t. However, there is another way you can bring new life to your old Christmas tree.
Your Cut Christmas Tree is Sprouting Pine Cones and Buds
Trees necessitate healthy roots to grow. Without roots, how can a Christmas tree sprout pine cones or buds?
Though it might seem like magic, it’s all about the knowledge of how trees respond in the dormant season. Trees must go through a period of cold weather before they get the sign in the springtime to grow once more. For conifers, the usual cold period is around eight weeks.
Once trees do all their dormant hours, they’re just anticipating for temps to go up so they can begin growing again. If your Christmas trees were inactive for a long time outside, the heat inside could stimulate it to start developing as if it’s spring.
Replanting a Christmas Tree That Has Growing Buds
Sad to say, but rootless trees can’t be replanted. Though, if you still desire a memento from your cherished Christmas tree, it’s possible to grow a new tree from one of the tree’s limbs.
Replanting a Tree Branch
Replanting a branch is like beginning planting a new tree job from scratch. It’s not a simple task and requires plenty of patience.
Here’s What You Need to Do
Pack a pot with potting soil and wet the soil so that it’s damp. Next, use a pencil to create a hole in the soil.
Slice a couple of vertical slits into the bottom of the branch, then put into root hormone powder, which you can buy at your local York tree service business. Lastly, put the stem into the soil. That’s it! All that’s left is to watch it grow. You will have a new tree that will create unique Christmas memories.
It’s difficult not to adore maple trees when you think of their crisp yellow, red, and orange hues every autumn. However, the helicopter seeds that fall with their leaves are a hassle to clean up. You’ll be glad to know (if you didn’t know) that there are maple trees that don’t produce helicopter seeds. You can have your cake and eat it too!
Read this article and learn which seed-free maple tree will work well in your landscape.
Maple Trees Without Helicopter Seeds
For best results, select a maple tree within your plant hardiness zone. And while autumn is the top time to plant maples, spring is an excellent option as well.
Seedless Maple Trees
Sienna Glen and Autumn Blaze Maple Trees
Sienna glen and autumn blaze maples do grow helicopter seeds. Though, many types are seedless, such as autumn fantasy and celebration maple trees.
Autumn Blaze vs. Sienna Glen Maple
There are numerous seedless selections of the autumn blaze and sienna glen maples. However, not all are seedless. Do your research or contact York PA Tree Service before purchasing.
Both trees have fantastic fall colors, but there are a couple of differences between the autumn glaze and sienna glen maple.
Using burlap aids in safeguarding fine tree roots as they get taken from the nursery to your house. But then the question becomes, "when planting a tree, do I remove the burlap?“
Planting Trees with Burlap
Burlap keeps trees together until they’re securely put into a planting hole. At this stage, you can take off most of the burlap.
Take the Burlap Off When Planting
Yes, and you should remove as much as you can. Once the tree is put safely in the hole, slice and take off the burlap from around the bottom of the trunk. Next, work your way down the root ball and eliminate as much burlap as you can.
This can aid in lessening the possibility of girdling roots and dehydration. That’s when the roots develop near the trunk and hinder the tree’s ability to carry nutrients and water.
Wire Baskets and Planting Trees
If you are using wire baskets instead of burlap, take off at least the top third of the basket from the root ball. That's all you have to do.
If you attempt to take off more, you raise the possibility that the root ball will start to deteriorate and tear apart.
Planting a Tree Wrapped in Burlap
To move your tree, hold or roll it by the root ball. Don’t ever move it holding on to the branches or trunk.
Dig a saucer-shaped hole as deep down as the root ball and twice as big.
Place your tree, so the spot where the roots connect to the trunk is slightly above or at the ground — that known as the root flare. The greatest mistake is folks planting new trees too deep. Also, be sure the ground under the root ball is stable so that the tree doesn’t sink lower due to its weight.
Cut the cord and take the burlap off from around the trunk base and the root ball top. It’s difficult to tell the difference between organic and synthetic. Sometimes, organic burlap doesn’t decompose correctly.
If you aren’t sure about removing the burlap on your own, contact an arborist to do the job for you.